After ten non-stop days of passage-making across the open Pacific, we finally caught sight of land on Friday and made our way into the marina in Papeete. This was our first proper marina in nearly two months—since leaving Panama back in mid-February—so the sense of relief was immense.
Conditions on board, however, had gotten pretty dire. Our watermaker had broken down back in the Galapagos, leaving us with virtually no fresh water apart from a few plastic drinking bottles. The catamaran was completely caked in a thick layer of dried sea salt. To make matters worse, as we were making our final approach toward the island, a stray line got caught in our wind generator and snapped one of its blades, knocking it completely out of commission. Luckily, we had managed to order a replacement blade in advance, which Damjan’s father and uncle will be bringing with them when they fly in.
Our first priorities were crystal clear: give the interior of the boat a deep scrub to get rid of all the salt, and immediately start hunting for spare parts for the watermaker.
First Impressions and the Sidewalk Theory
By the time we finished scrubbing the deck and interior, dusk was already falling, so we headed out for our first walk around Papeete. The scenery was breathtaking—steep, towering green volcanic cliffs rising directly behind the town. Papeete itself looked spectacular, striking a perfect balance between modern civilization, paved roads, proper sidewalks, and lush greenery.
Back when we left Europe and reached the Caribbean, I came up with a personal theory: the level of a society’s civilization is directly proportional to the amount of sidewalks you can find in its towns. In Papeete, that sidewalk index was more than satisfying. Everything felt remarkably harmonious right from the start. The city was vibrant and full of life—cafes were open, cars were humming by, yet that distinct feeling of a tropical paradise was waiting around every corner.
The Local Market and an Airport Bureaucracy Adventure
Having learned that Saturday was market day, we woke up early to check out the local offerings. The market in Papeete was fantastic—an explosion of vibrant colors, smells, and novelties. We encountered species of fresh fish we didn’t even know existed. Driven by pure curiosity, we bought whatever caught our eye without even worrying whether it was edible: “Let’s buy it first and figure out what it is later!”
After the market, we needed to handle our official check-in formalities. The marina staff told us we had to clear customs and immigration ourselves at the police station. Once we got there, however, the officers redirected us to the immigration office located at the international airport.
When we arrived at the airport terminal, we walked into a completely surreal scene: there was not a single soul in sight. No guards, no airport staff, nobody. Baffled, we walked in looking around for anyone to ask for directions. Suddenly, someone stepped out from the duty-free zone. Seizing the moment, we slipped through the door and pushed further inside until we bumped into a customs officer.
He stared at us in absolute shock, utterly confused as to how we had wandered into a restricted area. As it turned out, all international flights landed in the afternoon, leaving the terminal completely deserted in the morning!
Once the initial confusion settled, he dropped a bureaucratic bombshell: we couldn’t officially enter Tahiti because we didn’t have a return plane ticket! We tried explaining that we had arrived on our own catamaran and would be leaving the exact same way—by sea. But in true bureaucratic fashion, he didn’t care about our boat. Rules were rules: we either had to buy outbound flight tickets on the spot or deposit a massive security bond of around $3,000 to $4,000 in local currency (a rather unstable exchange rate), which they promised to refund once we departed safely.
After three long hours of intense negotiating, we finally struck a compromise: they allowed us to head over to the neighboring marina in the next bay over the hill to find a maritime agent who could process a guarantee for us.
Contrasts in Paradise and Welcoming Guests
Beyond the administrative headaches, Papeete is a vibrant town filled with incredible street art murals that cover walls throughout the city. The local Carrefour hypermarket is stocked with virtually anything you could ever crave. While prices are a bit higher than in Europe, having access to full shelves was a luxury after weeks of scarcity at sea.
Another striking observation was the physical build of the local population. A large portion of the locals are noticeably oversized, likely because their bodies struggle to adapt to a modern processed diet. For centuries, their ancestors lived primarily on seafood and natural local produce; today, long queues form outside McDonald’s even before it opens—a truly shocking contrast in the South Pacific. Lean, fit people are rare sight, mostly limited to those actively training in outrigger canoes.
All in all, Tahiti welcomed us with a full spectrum of contrasts—from natural beauty and vibrant markets to absurd administrative hurdles. We’ve settled in, sorted out our immediate needs, and tomorrow our guests arrive to kick off the next chapter!